Відео

Glad to see the B on the road! I 100% agree with you, drive your classics! Cheers from the US of A

The boot should not be tight to the shaft, it should be aloud to slide up and down without resistance when shifting. mine use to pop out of 4th.

As soon as I saw that hammer I thought this will not end well ! Its a delicate, touchy feely job to push it back in. Gently does it !

Great video great accent pleased you had trouble but you sorted it out in the end well done fella

Your face when you're revving up through the gears says it all

What can be the resale value of these PHEVs? I am very afraid that after 6-7 years of use no one will buy them as 3rd, 4th... owners considering the cost for batter replacement or decreased capacity

Nice job Ross - you could have improved the result by taking of the wheels and cleaning & polishing them also from the inside😅. Personnally I would recommend a sponge or soft pad of micofiber for applying the polish and different types of dent microfiber towels for finishing the paint😅. Cheers from Germany

You only need to drop the 3 bolts and column hangs down. Take die grinder with cutting wheel, and cut a slot on sheer bolts and take large screw driver and remove sheer bolts. You do not need to remove steer column

Thanks for this video brother❤,will it rust on the opposite side of the welded portion

my MK2 hose for heater matrix got cut off from fire wall to engine i just to know where do reconnect them in the engine can you please make a video for that?

I have a similar issue. The Dometic fridge in my touring caravan stopped working shortly after I bought it. It's on a seasonal pitch and I cant find anyone to go look at it. It's putting a downer on the new caravan experience. I think it's thermostat related. Doesn't work on gas or electric. Do you work on these at all? It's in Clare.

I tapped a large chisel into the end of the curl in the spring, which pried it open, then drove out with a socket. Pretty easy!!

Did have an issue, was tuning, and the tach burned up and the white wire from tach to fusebox, cooked. And ideas anyone why that happened? Thanks

When i first got my car. I went section by section on the electrical system, and pulled apart, polish up male and female connectors, then coated the connector’s with bioelectical grease to seal the connecting. Found a few loose connection, adjusted to be firm connections, and a few corrosion connections. Believe system will long-term😂 be less troublesome.

Hey what’s radio model

You were sold a lie, but you were warned, just didn’t listen. It’s the same with the 💉, the fake climate change, fake evolution and the globe nonsense.

Glen Hansard fixes his car You sound exactly like him!

my father bought a 2007 corolla verso 1.8 semi auto from someone he used to work under in 2011.the guy imported it to pakistan from uk and didnt like it and we were forced to buy. it worked great for about 4 years until it felt like having 7 nuetrals while we were on a trip,for about 4 years we went to about a dozen mechanics and spent about 700k PKR or 6k USD trying to get it fixed. the mechanics claimed the clutch wasnt anywhere to be found on this planet and we eventualy had to swap gear with an old landcruiser 4 speed auto gearbox with an old toyota odometer and now the interior looks bad with low fuel economy due to 4 speed gearbox and cruise control doesen't pair along the meter. we tried multiple times to sell the car but being a unseen and unheard car with a experimented looking interior it goes for dirt cheap compared to the local cars you get in the same pricepoint.

I love this kind of thing. Good work mate.

Thanks

Can this be done with my mk2 that has manual locks?

For cleaning only why not just spray the crap out of it with BrakeClean with out taking it apart. Good vids on rear drum brakes on Rainman Rays Repairs.

Here in South Africa we have Pratley steel almost similar to JB weld but not as strong though I have used it to fix aluminium sumps for a couple of times it held for sometime but then after a few months it starts leaking only because I never realky did it the proper way from cleaning and application mostly were rush fixes the one I did nicely 2 years ago cleaned the surfaces applied the pratley nicely and sanded it down smoothly still holding up till now

Im not of a fan of electronically controlled manual gearboxes. I have a 5 speed manual Corolla and still on it's original clutch after 78k.

Just buy a Tesla.

Hey please never stop! Im in the states and gonna get one of these rubber bumper cars within the year and these guides are invaluable to have. Tutorials like this are useful for preserving history as time goes on and will have a lasting benefit to others, even if you have no idea. Thanks for taking your time to record and sharing everything with us!

same radio is still me using in my house

Situation: Man doesn't do research and overpays for niche car with high milage and puts himself in financial difficulty. Root cause: EVs are to blame!!!! PS I own the same car from new and it's met my every need and is still bulletproof to this day, I also insured the same car 11 months ago for €17k with less milage

Add a towbar and pull a diesel generator behind you, then you can charge up anywhere.😀

So which rebuild kit seems to be the goto for most.

This video showed me a lot, thanks. Right now both windows are very hard to roll up and down any thoughts why it is doing this? I have a 1969 Bug

Big mistake was buying an electric car, the biggest mistake was buying a Hyundai 🫥

Bending sheetmetal in all kinds of directions is not for everyone and mastering all the different welding techniques is not easy either. There exist several longer courses for this. But as we know from your posts, this is not a challenge you feel confident about. See e.g. this bottom line on the right fender: professional welders would've chosen to realise this with a seam having a stepped side underneath the other part with holes for plug welding through them. Still up till now your confidence did not desert you on many of the jobs most of us would turn away from. It regularly happens people loose their spirit on completing a body resto much more extensive than originally anticipated. Frankly speaking I love reading stories in the Practical Classics Magazine I have an ongoing subscription on with such stories inside, but never contemplated to mimick the trickier metal jobs described herein myself. The last time I had my hands on a electric welder was in 1961 in my 1st year at the UNI. In those years automatically darkening goggles or helmets even did not exist, so I managed poorly 😯

On another UA-cam video a bloke engaged a machine shop for preheating new pistons no get the gudgeon pins inside in an easier way. My guess is the reverse action is also possible. Personally I have only lifted the B-block twice over the years to renew pressure plate, clutch plate and TO bearing and this block is indeed incredibly heavy to lift. The first time I also renewed the seal on the gearbox front and recently I had to lift the head to solve a hanging valve problem. So even engine jobs can come unexpectely to all of us.

I have the facelifted version and do not recognize the lights issue. Leg room is a problem indeed, and the horn is a bit underwhelming to say the least. But what I find most annoying overall is the complete lack of horsepower. This particular electric motor would be more at home in a kitchen blender than in a car. Lastly, the springs are too soft. I'm using a small trailer to carry my camping gear if I go camping, because if I use a roof box and the trunk all that gear will make the rear sag way down despite being under the car's rated weight limit. Other than that, after 220000km the biggest repair bill I've seen was €60 for reinstalling a fog light (that is not counting regular maintenance, oil, tires, ...). That is actually the key reason for me to own this car.

A sad moment for sure having to accept this car was a daunting basket case after all. Well, for those having panelbeating equipment and the necessary skills it is still a viable project to complete (Practical Classics Magazine contains many of those seemingly impossible projects). Better luck next time and better safe than sorry I would say. 😢 The people that watched and commented on your progress have much to thank you for.. 👍

You are definitely a master in painting with a rattle can to real shine, something on which I failed ages ago standing at the kerb (had my B resprayed professionally a few years later because of this failure of mine). Lot of hard work and what a patience with this very long job starting on what many would consider a basket case in the 1st place! 😍

Even if the panel in de wheelcavity seems to close off the space behind the front fenders, road dust invariably assembles behind it, with the layer on top of the reinforced ledge as being the most dangerous to structural integrity. On this GT one is lucky rust did not progress so much. A regular clean and repeated Waxoyl treatments can protect these steel parts for good, the sill part inside included. My recipe was a first clean by hand, copious amounts of wayoyl sprayed inside and by hand covering this ledge with Waxoyl assures it is safe. I repeat this exercise every 2-3 years. The tiny indents on the bottom of the fender for letting the water come out will clog up anyway and this is also the reason I find the use of plastic fendercovers on the outer side of the fenders not very usefull: they will trap water behind covers and fenders, which will not go away on its own. Never use Tectyl on any hollow cavity: it will trap water which will come out on the outer surface as pinhole rusting, guess how I know. 🤔

I'm a fan of the rubber bumper MGBs, they represent a specific time from the mid 70s to the early 80s, a stylish time in the UK. It's the interiors that let them down. Even a TR7 interior is better

Nuts didn’t loosen. The loose nut is the guy working on the car. He didn’t torque them to begin with

Ahahaha ! Thank you for the video. You’re a very funny guy.

Well done and easier to follow than the explanations on paper by the Practical Classics Magazine experts on bodywork from panelbeating to welding. Pictures and video's together form a worthwhile experience, but also a warning on what one is up against if the choice is made to repair bodywork sections instead of buying prefabricated repair pieces...

These tiny pieces on top of the fender channel are the remnants of rubber stops to the bonnet. Just put in new ones in and also renew the rubber at the back, in front of the windscreen for equal support front and back. The condition of the fenders itself does not surprise me: on my own (CBB Tourer) 1986 resto both front fenders and in my case also both doors had to be renewed and painted in the same process as the rest of the body. But: the sill on the bottom and the top structure are indeed in near to perfect shape after 30 years of rest. At least present British Heritage produced fenders areof a much better quality and shape than the ones I bought in 1986 (my right one had to hammered in place).

Having the outer races perfectly pressed in is best achieved without the shims in place by torqueing the castellated nut up to well above this 70 lbf/96Nm value at first. Checking the endfloat with shims in situ can be improved by temporarily putting the wheel back on: rocking the top and bottom should not let the rim move more than say 2-3 mm/0,1" for lowest tolerance. The splitpin for the final phase can be shorted on one of its legs (I put a metal saw to an used splitpin of the brakepad assembly) and with this short end drifted in the recess of the nut, the longer part can be bent over on the outside over the stub axle end. Such a splitpin is easier to remove on disassembly. Turn the nut slightly anticlockwise to lock the splitpin firmly. Remaining grease should not fill up the greasecover beyond 50% max.

Congrats on using V8 (NOS) rubber bushings: mine were mounted in 1986 and are still doing fine. BTW pressing them in the swivel arms can also be helped by using concentrated dishwashing detergent. Getting the top trunnion inbetween the shock arms can be done in several ways: next to yours it is also possible to prise the arms further apart by some bolt on the inside, put someting like a screwdriver between these arms to keep them apart and also use some palletknives if the rubber needs to be pressed further in. I found it better not to tighten the small bolts holding the lower springpad to the arms before the bottom of the kingpin assembly is duly in place (these thin metal plates with their tiny rubber seals are otherwise a PITA to shift inbetween as well and do not last long anyhow). Thanx a lot for these fine video's once more...

It's an electric vehicle. It's got a whopping great battery in it. Same technology as a phone. Same issue - those batteries lose charge capacity over time. It will eventually have a tiny range. At that point you should really replace the battery but it will cost you the majority of the cost of the vehicle as new. And it won't be new by that point. Does not make financial sense to buy a new battery. EVs are single use disposable items like phones. Buy from new, use it, then recycle and buy another new one. Nope.